Got your transfer? Here's how to put it on at home with a normal household iron. Watch the short film first, then keep this page open while you press.

Always check the care label and test your fabric first. Works on cotton, polyester and poly/cotton.

What you need

  • A household iron (or a heat press)
  • Parchment or baking paper
  • A hard, flat surface, not an ironing board
  • A clean, dry garment, washed without fabric softener

How to apply your transfer with an iron

1. Check the care label

Before you start, look at the label inside the garment. You want cotton, polyester or a poly/cotton mix and an iron symbol that is not crossed out. If the label shows a crossed-out iron, the fabric can't take the heat, so don't apply a transfer to it. One dot on the iron symbol means low heat only: test on a hidden spot first.

T-shirt care label: 100% cotton, iron symbol not crossed out

2. Set the iron

Cotton/Linen setting, steam off. Empty the water tank if you can, steam stops the glue from bonding.

Iron set to Cotton/Linen with steam off, next to a white T-shirt

3. Preheat the fabric

Iron the spot for 10-15 seconds. This removes wrinkles and moisture so the glue grips evenly.

Preheating the T-shirt with the iron before applying the transfer

4. Position the transfer

Plastic side up, glue side down on the fabric. The shiny clear film is what you see, the letters sit underneath it. Check it's straight before you press.

Placing the iron-on transfer on the T-shirt, plastic side up

5. Cover and protect

Lay parchment (baking) paper over the whole transfer. Never put the iron straight on the plastic.

Covering the transfer with baking parchment

6. Iron the transfer

Press down firmly for 15-20 seconds. Lift and press section by section, don't slide the iron. Don't overheat and don't hold it much longer than 20 seconds.

Pressing the iron firmly over the parchment and transfer

7. Cool and peel

Wait 5-10 seconds, then slowly peel the plastic from one corner. If a letter starts to lift with the film, lay it back down and press again for 10 seconds.

Peeling the clear film from a corner, letters stay on the T-shirt

Final press tip: after peeling, press again lightly through parchment for 5 seconds for a smooth, durable finish.

Using a heat press

HTV type Temperature Press time Peel
Matte 140-150°C 8-10 sec Hot or cold
Glitter 150-160°C 12-15 sec Warm or cold
Metallic 140-150°C 7-10 sec Cold

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

Almost every problem we hear about comes from one of these. Check the list before you start.

Overheated transfer

Overheated transfer: shiny wrinkled vinyl, torn letters stuck to the film

Why it happens: The vinyl turns shiny and wrinkled, thin parts tear, and bits stay stuck to the film instead of the fabric. The iron was too hot, held too long or used without parchment.

How to avoid it: Use the Cotton/Linen setting, 15-20 seconds per press, always through parchment.

Letters lift after washing

Transfer letters lifting at the edges after washing

Why it happens: Usually not enough heat or pressure when applying, washing within 24 hours, or a hot wash and tumble dryer.

How to avoid it: Press firmly on a hard surface, wait 24 hours, wash inside out at 30°C max and air dry. Re-press through parchment for 5 seconds.

Pressed on an ironing board

Pressing a transfer on a soft ironing board

Why it happens: A soft, springy board absorbs the pressure, so the glue doesn't reach into the fabric.

How to avoid it: Use a hard, flat surface such as a table protected with a towel.

Steam left on

Iron with steam on while pressing a transfer

Why it happens: Steam adds moisture and the glue can't bond. Edges lift within days.

How to avoid it: Steam off and an empty water tank.

Transfer put on upside down

Transfer placed upside down, letters reading backwards

Why it happens: Glue side up means the glue melts onto the iron and nothing sticks to the fabric.

How to avoid it: Clear plastic film on top, letters facing up and readable.

Iron slid around

Iron slid around: transfer film shifted, letters crooked and overlapping

Why it happens: Sliding pushes the fabric into folds and moves the soft vinyl, so letters shift, overlap or stick on crooked.

How to avoid it: Press and lift, one section at a time.

Letters stay on the film

Not enough heat: letters lifted off with the plastic film

Why it happens: The glue didn't get enough heat or pressure to bond, so the letters come away with the film. Usually the iron was too cool, pressed too briefly or on a soft surface, or the film was ripped off fast.

How to avoid it: Cotton/Linen setting, press firmly for 15-20 seconds on a hard surface, then peel slowly from a corner. If a letter lifts, lay the film back down and press again for 10 seconds.

Wrong fabric

Transfer not sticking on a fluffy fleece jumper

Why it happens: Fluffy, stretchy or coated fabrics don't hold the glue, and some melt under the iron. The same goes for any garment whose care label shows a crossed-out iron.

How to avoid it: Test on a hidden spot first. Cotton, polyester and poly/cotton work best.

Care and washing

  • First wash: wait 24 hours before washing.
  • Wash inside out: 30°C max, no bleach, no fabric softener.
  • Air dry only: no tumble drying.
  • Iron inside out: low heat, never directly on the vinyl.

Fabrics to avoid: fluffy or textured, stretchy (e.g. Lycra), silk, satin, wool, leather, nylon, lace and sportswear with a coating.

These instructions come in every order and are printed on the card in your parcel. Results depend on the iron, the fabric and how the transfer is pressed, so please follow them closely. Stuck on anything? Email me at info@denmary.co.uk before you press and I'll help. If you bought on Etsy or eBay, you can message me there instead.